Wow, Auckland's all growed up! My memory of this city from a couple decades ago was that it was low-key and shuttered up by about 10 at night. I also remember the traffic signals working so that traffic stops all directions, and pedestrians could cross all at once.
That crossing method hasn't changed (save for updated LED technology) but this city is almost rockin' on a Saturday night. The Esquires Coffee House (national chain) I'm sitting in is open 24/7. Gasp! My hostel is next door to a massage parlour advertising a 24-hour bar, and is located around corner from a mobile diner "White Lady" (also open 24 hours). There seem to be a lot of interesting-looking Asian restaurants in this part of downtown, too.
After I checked into hostel I wandered down to the wharf as daylight was fading. Happened to pass by a ticket centre showing that next ferry to Devonport was leaving in 5 minutes. Hopped on, did the 15-min. crossing, got some good sunset photos of city in the process. I'd heard from several travellers about Devonport, and was now sorry I hadn't chosen a hostel there instead of next to a...oh well.
Devonport, what little I saw, was quite charming. There is even a folk club over there; alas, not open this evening. I headed over to the Masonic Tavern in search of live music. Had a couple of drinks and a wonderful calamari (seared in lime and passionfruit) salad, but not enough energy to wait for the band at 9 pm.
However, their sound check sounded pretty good. They were advertised as "hip hop" but sounded more R+B, rootsy, with two acoustic guitars, congas, keyboards. At least during their sound check. Sorry I didn't get to stick around.
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