Showing posts with label Kapiti Island. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kapiti Island. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

The Zen of Kapiti




Woke to a gorgeous clear sky for my day trip to Kapiti Island. DOC permit in hand I headed across the street to meet the boat. There’s no wharf or pier in Paraparaumu Beach so it was an interesting beach launch - first time I’ve done this.

The boat (which holds about 30) is towed down to waterline by a tractor which backs it into water and away we go. Most of our boat was taken up by a school group of 8-yr olds. What a great age. As I told them, wish I’d had such a cool field trip when I was in school. Also aboard was a muzzled Golden Lab and his handler, who we were told later is one of NZ’s top kiwi scientists. He was going over for the day to track and tag the kiwi population on Kapiti.

A short 15 min. later we washed up on the island and had another DOC intro. This one was longer but more interesting than the one we had on Somes Island. Bird identification 101 and a review of island rules - no smoking, stay on trails, pack out garbage, etc. I was rarin’ to go and see me some birdies!

I opted to go up the mountain and the lookout tower there. Elevation change was only 500 m. and the trail had a lot of switchbacks. There was an alternate trail which went “straight up”: the Grouse Grind of Kapiti. No thanks. As it was, my trail felt like enough of a grind.

In many ways it felt like a walk in the rainforest back home: dense forest, many ferns, high canopy. Here however, the trees included more tropical varieties and, most importantly, it sounded different. If I had time/money I’d go back and do some high-quality audio field recordings. I can’t begin to describe the diversity and beauty of the birdsongs. It must be just incredible at 5 am when they awake.

The complete lack of predators on the island is also interesting. Kapiti has been a reserve for over a century. Gradually all ‘pests’ - from farm animals to possums and even rats, have all been eradicated. Any rustling in the underbrush is likely to be a bird. No nasty surprises - not even a snake!

Since we had a full 5 hrs on the island I was in no rush to get to the summit, especially with 40 8-yr olds racing me up. It was great to just stand and listen, and occasionally look up and try to find birds in the high canopy.

The summit did not disappoint and did indeed look like the gorgeous photo on pg. 13 of the Rough Guide to New Zealand. Even though it was sunny and not windy, we noticed a bit of a chill in the air.

The school kids were fun. I asked some “young ladies” who would like to take my picture and they were falling over each other to help. Ah, to be 8 again. Once they and my other boat mates headed down the hill I spread out my lunch, cracked open the wine and had a leisurely picnic. The DOC woman had warned us about the resident wekas (flightless brown birds, kiwi-like with shorter beaks) who were very nosy and prone to throwing unattended lunches and packs over the cliff. I had them and the summit to myself and it went fine. So many great photos.

Alas, about halfway down I took a photo that I decided to delete. As I was doing so, a “Delete All” message flashed that I had never seen before. (I swear!) Of course, I couldn’t stop or undo - it was like those slo-mo sequences where the hero is screaming “noooooo…”.

I nearly cried. All those bird photos, summit photos, Val portraits by 8-yr olds..all gone.
Then I realized how lucky I was to even be here. If this was the worst thing to happen all day, so be it. At least I’ve been downloading photos daily, so I only lost a half-day’s work.

The rest of the way down I started seeing more birds I hadn’t seen on way up. The one I’ve posted above flew close and paused nearby, as if to say: “don’t cry - you can snap me!” Sometimes the universe gives back..

When I was walking back to the beach with the DOC woman, I told her my tale of woe. Lo and behold she had a ‘secret stash’ of trees where certain breeds hung out. So all was not lost.

The sun was already low (winter is on way) when we loaded back on the boat to return to the mainland. After one last long walk on Paraparaumu Beach, I picked up a paua fritter at the chip shop and headed back via train to Wellington. Goodbye, Kapiti Coast..

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Paraparaumu


Lordy, I loves me these Maori placenames. Wonder if it means "reminiscent of Washington or Oregon beach town"? With fewer highrises, but same creeping trendy condo development. To a fashion.

I've set up base camp in this cute little beach town in order to take the ferry at 9 a.m. tomorrow to Kapiti Island for a day trip. I believe is a sacred Maori place-slash protected bird sanctuary - time to read the brochures I guess. In any case, it gets rave reviews from the locals and there's a beautiful picture in the "don't miss" section of Rough Guide. Like the West Coast Trail back home, access is limited - only 50 people per day allowed on the island. If the weather's anything like today I think I'll pack a pair of shorts in my daypack and pack extra sunscreen. I spent a long lazy afternoon walking up and down the long strand of Paraparaumu Beach and enjoying the quiet. This is my first of many beaches this trip and I think I'm off to a great start.

The YHA hostel here is right on the beach; a charming, somewhat run down, but clean old hotel. Because there's so few people here in off-season I've scored a private room with ocean view for $25NZD. Dined this evening with a nice ole gal from Holland, an inveterate traveller on her 5th trip to New Zealand.

Stocked up on groceries tonight, including a $10NZD bottle of Lindemans Bin 50 Shiraz. Very drinkable. Found a $5 pair of "sunnies" (sunglasses) to replace my broken pair so we are good to go.