Muriwai Beach

At last, some gorgeous coastal scenery for your enjoyment.  Our lovely Auckland hosts Keg and Mary took us out to the western suburb of Muriwai Beach the afternoon of our arrival. 

As you can see, a fine day, and the water wasn't too cold. (not too warm, either)  Was very happy with the late afternoon light and the quality of the photos with my new Panasonic camera.  Nice long lens for snapping the gannet colony.

We had a grand time and I didn't even mind getting soaked to waist by a "rogue wave".  Even though it meant leaving a wet spot on the wood bench at the bar we stopped by on way home from the beach.  

Okay, some bird pictures:

happy Bike to Work week

As I type this post (last week of May 2012) it's Bike to Work week here.  Here's something else we in Vancouver could take away from the New Zealand experience.

This rack is located near the ferry terminal on the Auckland waterfront, a major transit hub.

public transit

I'm going to continue this blog by pulling photos from the trip, posting them, writing about them.  Sometimes more commentary on New Zealand life and culture on a broader scale than what's actually in the photo.  

This is one of the first photos I took in New Zealand this trip, on an express bus from Auckland International Airport to downtown.  Anyone familiar with metro Vancouver buses will recognize the colour scheme.  This bus was not busy, most likely due to the time (around 8am) and the fact that it was Good Friday (holiday).

Since we had a car rental for most of trip, we only found ourselves relying on public transit in Auckland.  This trip was fairly straightforward; our next interface with Auckland transit slightly less so.

We spent the following day (Saturday before Easter) hiking the Mt. Tongariro volcano and wandering around suburban Davenport.  Once back in downtown Auckland, fed and watered, we attempted to get back to the suburb of Onehunga via public transit.  Our first stop at a large bus interchange sent us to a nearby train station, where we learned the train to Onehunga was not running.  But there was a bus going roughly the same direction.  So far so good; bus dropped us at the Onehunga train station, which we guessed (being map + iPhone-less) was not far away. 

At this point we should've flagged a cab.  However, we were convinced we were within walking distance, or at least a short bus ride.  Fast forward through unhelpful directions from a friendly convenience store owner, more walking until we found a supermarket, and two phone calls from there to a cab company, and we did finally get to our destination.

All in all, an adventure, if somewhat tiring.

We had better luck and advance planning when we took transit from Onehunga to the Auckland Museum at trip's end.  Crankier bus drivers, though.  Probably because two of us were using -- legally --  a loaned prepaid bus pass)  

One thing NZ transit can teach us in North America?  The beauty of GIVING CHANGE, and accepting paper bills for fare.

Russell

Here's a sidewalk painting in Russell, a small town which is a short ferry ride away from Paihia, in the Bay of Islands.  And another:

We assumed they were by local kids.  Russell was a good spot for art galleries, formal and otherwise.  The local "historic church" (every town has one or more, of course) was filled with functional art, that being the needlepoint churc pew seat cushions.  Good way to stay comfy during those long sermons!

cavorting dolphins

Some of you may know that one item on my "bucket list" for this New Zealand trip was to swim with dolphins. As it turned out, the weather was not so cooperative and it was probably a bit late in the season in any case.  Swimming in wetsuits in waters of about 15deg.C. is best left to the young. :)

In any case, I have swum with, or at least very near to, dolphins, albeit by accident, in Far Northern Queensland (Australia) back in the 80's.  But that's another story..

Near the beginning of our trip Estelle and I were able to see rare Hector's dolphins up close during a nature cruise in Akaroa. (see an earlier post)  As expected, there were more dolphins of various species residing in the waters of the Bay of Islands.  Despite rather choppy waters, we were able to see two pods (or the same pod, twice?) during our 2 1/2 hours on the water. I will keep attempting to upload some wonderful video, but please also enjoy these photos.

update:  (May 29, 2012) Am still trying to upload video!  And it's still not working...will keep trying, however..

waiata

It's always the people who make the trip.  My most interesting encounters with New Zealanders didn't get photographed, but I did get this snap of Barbara, who's mentioned in previous post.

Waiata is the Māori word for song. Barbara happened to have a songbook with her while we were strolling through the Auckland Botanical Gardens, and regaled us with a tune.

last day in auckland

Alas, our travel today takes us back to Vancouver.  While Estelle seems ready to get back to "normal life", I'm not so keen to get back to work, etc. yet.  Still, sleeping in own bed will be most welcome.

Many thanks to our fine hosts in Auckland the last couple of days.  Barbara is a wonderful, vivacious woman that I met in Taupo on my last NZ trip in 2010.  She was kind enough to take us to the Botanic Gardens and then to a wonderful little pizza place in Onehunga.  (where I was told I have a "cool accent"!)

Many more thanks to Keg, who put us up / put up with us in the midst of preparations to move back to California in a few weeks' time.  We had a great time sitting around the fire gabbing into the wee hours last night.

We're off to the airport around noon, and it looks like we'll be just under our allowable luggage weight limit. Yay!  Perhaps I can even find room for one more bottle of wine.

I'm going to miss this country very much, and this blog will continue for some time.  When I edit my (thousands) of photos I will put a few more up so you can better see what we experienced Down Under.

Meantime, kia ora and hope you're all well!

Here's a picture of a really big tree for you!  This is the famed Tane Mahuta in the Waipoua Forest of Northland. 

Subtropical rain

Woke several times last night to the sound of howling wind and intermittent rain pounding on the corrugated roof.  This morning we're up early to go to Waitangi (of the famous Waitangi Treaty) and waiting for a break in the rain storms to load up our car.  Now we know why everything is so green here!

Dolphins!

We arrived in Paihia, in the Northland region of North Island, yesterday.  This town is the hub of the Bay of Islands area.  Lots of yachties, pricey vacation properties, chi-chi boutiques and restos.  Also a big backpacker culture, esp. during summer months. (which it definitely is not at the moment)

I'm having probs hooking up to reliable wifi with my netbook, so you'll have to take my word that we enjoyed seeing several pods (are they called pods?) of dolphins today. Amazing!  I've seen dolphins even in BC, but never had a chance to be in a stopped boat and watch them approach.  Close enough to hear them breathe.  Our pods were "quiet" (ie. not so frisky and playful) but the weather was rather crap, so who can blame them? 

I will post photos -- and video! -- at a later date.  As in when I'm back on pumped-up North American broadband.  Yeah baby!

We only have a few days left on our trip, and the rest is just gravy, as they say, after today's wonderful experience. 

The Seabird Coast

We left Rotorua this morning with the vague hope of getting north of Auckland by day's end.  We don't like to drive after dark and the days are shorter, so that usually means driving until about 6 pm.

We started the day at Waimangu Thermal Reserve, about 20 min. south of Rotorua.  Wonderful bush walk and all sorts of thermal activity up very close.  I likely shot over 100 pictures in a couple of hours, and several minutes of video.  A remarkable place.

No pictures yet, alas, because I'm typing on a sloooow public terminal in our holiday park on above Seabird Coast.  Orere Pt. is very close to Auckland but surprisingly desolate.  We are getting barely better internet and mobile phone access than the East Cape!

Tomorrow is ANZAC Day, a national holiday and Fairly Big Deal.  Think Rememberance Day (they even wear paper poppies), but with more emphasis on that whole Gallipoli thing..  We are hoping that the holiday means traffic through the Auckland bottleneck will be considerably lighter.  

not a sign one sees every day

"Historical church" has become a bit of a touchstone this trip.  On the East Cape, especially, we were prone to pulling over whenever we saw that sign.  Because you need to be invited to visit a marae (Maori meeting house) -- and we haven't been yet -- visiting old Anglican churches with Maori influence in the decoration has been one way to connect with that culture, or at least some of its history.

Several churches we saw in last few days have a strong Maori influence in their design -- just a few samples above.

"Rottenrua"

This sign is in an otherwise ordinary park in the middle of Rotorua, central North Island, known for the intensive geothermal activity in and around the area.

In other words:  boiling water!  Boiling mud!  Steam!  Rotten eggs! (sulphur emissions)

You can't see it really clearly in the second photo above, but this hole in the ground (not even behind a barrier) was bubbling away.  Hot stuff.  What's amazing is that the pukeko bird (common fowl sorta like a blue chicken with orange beak) walks around in these hot hot waters hunting for whatever.  Food, I would imagine.

Tomorrow we will visit one of the thermal parks in the region and see much, much more of this before heading north to visit more beaches.

Waihau Bay

This boat is being loaded into the water at Waihau Bay, a sleepy little town on the East Cape.  We arrived here after a full day of quiet beaches, twisty roads, and an historic church or two.  Waihau Bay is the hometown of Taika Waititi,  writer/director of "Boy", one of my current fave movies.  This movie was filmed in Waihau and I recognized many of the locations.  We were warmly welcomed at the other end of town by a woman who talked our ear off for a good 1/2 hour about local history and gossip.  I love places like this.

We found really cheap backpackers lodging just behind the local hotel bar and had a brew there.  As it was Sunday it was pretty quiet.  Very quiet, in fact, and we/they "closed the place" around 9pm.

indeed we are

We found this booth at the Farmers Market this morning in Napier.  Lovely sisters who make a wicked line of preserves.  We walked away with a jar of aubergine and roasted pepper relish, which goes wonderfully with sharp cheddar and smoked fish...

I love it here and think you're great! (pant, pant)

This lovely dog found Estelle on Waipatiki Beach, a beautiful stretch of sand about 10km off the "main road" (SH2).  Winding road, hilly, etc.  But at least paved!  The owner came over to say hi and told us this was a 14-yr old "failed farm dog" who was as loveable as she seemed.

This little guy, which I nicknamed "Spot, Mr. Bill's dog", was definitely a moocher.  He did get a bit of our Tasty Cheese and was holding out patiently for some smoked kowahai fish, but left empty-handed.  

Leenane, this is the view Estelle had while she was chatting to you on my mobile!

Kiwi ingenuity

"Screw, glue, true, zapped & as good as new".  I want that on a t-shirt!

Above was what I got, along with repaired eyeglasses, in the wee town of Hastings.  Take that, cheap prescription glasses frames still under warranty to a Major Canadian Department Store!  (I'm looking at you, Sears..)

The woman not only did a bang-up job quickly and for only $7.50NZD, but she provided a detailed invoice  on the off chance that I submit this to the vendor of the original glasses.  And I really should.

up on high

A nice lady at the i-Site (info office) in Hastings recommended we drive up Te Mata Peak, about 15 min. drive away.  We did indeed do just that, up some narrow and winding roads, and were rewarded by a wonderful view. As well as a glimpse of a small wedding in progress!  The lens on my camera wasn't long enough to see what sparkling wine they chose, but I trust it was something from the region.  We are in Hawkes Bay, after all.

are they still winning?

If you're gonna see any Canucks jerseys in an op (thrift) shop, it's gonna be from this era, eh?
Still interesting to see something from home in a little store in Hastings, New Zealand.

wandering about

It was just one of those days.  We pointed the car towards Napier, on Hawkes Bay (east coast of North Island) in sunny weather.  Somewhere near a little town I spotted a garden supply sign.  I'm wanting to bring some native New Zealand seeds home, and thought this would be a good spot to procure said product.  It turned out to be more of a landscaping/bed plants/trees nursery kind of place, but we enjoyed wandering about. A nice worker did give us a name for a seed supply place which we will investigate further...

leaving Wellington

Here's a shot of Wellington's waterfront area taken during a late afternoon stroll yesterday.  Today we spent most of the morning in Te Papa (national museum) and then pointed the car northeast, hoping to perhaps get to Napier by tonight.

We had a bit of rainy weather and an unexpected twisty road through a mountain pass.  That and a late departure meant we got as far as Dannevirke.  We did get in a 5-minute visit at the massive Paua World which is indeed, well, all things paua!

Funny thing about Dannevirke (besides the Viking theme throughout the town, including a huge spotlit Viking ship in children's playground) is that Estelle already has a connection. A few months ago, in her local Value Village, she found a wooden Maori war boat in very nice shape.  The label on bottom indicates it was made here in Dannevirke!

We're staying tonight in a holiday park (campground) in an A-frame cabin with bunk bed, satellite tv, and deer (farmed) and bunnies (wild) nearby.  Feels very much like we are in the Deep Dark Woods.

Who knew??

Elks (sic) by the waterfront in Vancouver?!  Stop the presses!!
(this is in current edition of Kia Ora, the inflight magazine for Air New Zealand.

when you gotta go..

Estelle snapped this one, and I like it too!  On the Wellington waterfront walk, near the Te Papa museum.

Wellington

We're now in windy Wellington and while Estelle does our laundry (yay!) I had a nice long shower and have a chance to get online.  The YHA here in "Wellie" is quite nice, well-organized, great location, etc. etc.

Hoping to get out maybe to see some music tonight, and the national museum Te Papa tomorrow morning before driving north to the Hawkes Bay area.

G'night and hope you're all doing well!

good eats

This sign was in the 'chippie' (takeaway/fish & chips shop) that we went to last night in Kaikoura.  

We assume said brocolli (sic) would be battered and dipped in hot oil, so gave it a miss.

The fish and chips (elephant fish tonight, a ghastly looking sharky thing according to the chart on wall of NZ fish species) was delightful although we waited over 1/2 hr. for the order.  Unbelievably, this was the first fried food we'd eaten this trip.  In general we've been 'self-catering' in hostels, which for most part have clean and well-equipped kitchens.  We keep it quick and easy and use fresh local produce. 

Hostel managers are lovin' Estelle..  Those of you that know her are no doubt aware of her Mr. Clean ability to get rid of cooking messes quick-like.  I'm good with drying dishes. :) 

Next post will be from the North Island -- we're currently in departure lounge at Christchurch Airport -- and it's a lovely sunny autumn day.  Hope you're all doing well!

leaving Kaikoura

This is another spot I'm very sad to leave.  We arrived when clouds were very low and this morning as I write this the clouds have lifted!  Indeed this YHA hostel has the most spectacular waterfront view in this town (as the guidebooks promised)

We're back to Christchurch today to fly to "Windy Wellington".  And a new adventure on North Island!

Here's our friendly quizmaster from last night's trivia quiz night at the Adelphi pub in Kaikoura. (I walked in late but the winning team let me join them:  an Aussie, a Brazilian, and a young Canadian from Whitehorse).

Kaikoura

Here are some more seals for you.  These were part of a large colony right alongside SH1 just north of Kaikoura, back on the Pacific Coast, south of the Marlborough area.  It was rainy, windy and plain miserable, but I snapped a few photos and some video which I would post if I had bandwidth..

Below is typical of the day we had and the desolate windswept nature of this section of coast.  Gaspe Peninsula-ish?  We'll see something similar when we tour East Cape on North Island in a few days.

Not much traffic on the roads - tourism takes a steep drop after Easter, although schoolkids are about halfway through their 2-week Easter break.  So there's a few families about, some logging trucks today and not much else.

Havelock

Did you know that Havelock, roughly halfway between the cities of Nelson and Blenheim in the northern part of South Island, is the world capital of green-lipped mussels?

Well, it is, and I convinced Estelle that we HAD to stop there for a bowl.  She even tried some and loved 'em.  We split a fairly large pot of steamed mussels in a cream/chili/coriander sauce, cost $16NZD.  Soooo fresh.  We were the only customers for early lunch today but I could imagine this area out back being full of holiday traffic.  In fact, the cook told us they go through a tonne of mussels during their peak season of Christmas to New Year's.

A little further down the road we visited a sustainable zero-carbon etc. organic winery owned and funded by a guy who made most of his money establishing the mussel industry in Marlborough Sound, so that was interesting.